Hiking Scotland’s Orkney & Shetland Islands

(B)= Breakfast • (L)= Lunch • (D)= Dinner

Monday, July 31, 2023: Depart home

Tuesday, August 1: Aberdeen, SCOTLAND | Ferry to Kirkwall, Orkney
Upon your arrival at Aberdeen International Airport (ABZ) in Scotland, at no later than 2 pm, you will be met and transferred to the ferry terminal in Aberdeen, where our group will board the ferry to Kirkwall, Orkney. We will have dinner aboard the ferry, arrive in Kirkwall at about 11 pm, and transfer to our hotel. Overnight at the 4-star The Lynnfield Hotel for four nights. (D)

Wednesday, August 2: Skara Brae | Broch of Borwick | Kirkwall | Welcome dinner
Distance 3 mi. Height climbed: 360 ft. 
We start the day with a visit to Skara Brae, possibly Orkney’s most exciting archaeological site, which was buried by a sandstorm in about 2450 B.C. It was well preserved and then revealed by another storm in 1850. This, the “Heart of Neolithic Orkney,” which also includes the Ring of Brodgar, the Stones of Stenness, and Maeshowe (sites we will visit on August 5th), was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999. Walk south along the spectacular coast with geos, natural arches, caves, and sea stacks, visiting en route the Broch of Borwick, perched high on a headland. Return to our hotel and gather for a welcome dinner. (B,L,D)

Thursday, August 3: Isle of Rousay | Kirkwall
Distance 2.5 mi. Height climbed: 360 ft
Today we will take the ferry to the Isle of Rousay, where we will wander the most important archaeological mile in Scotland, through 5,000 years of history, visiting a number of burial cairns including Midhowe, Pictish brochs, Viking settlements, and remains of the period of the Earls and the troubled crofting times. (B,L,D)

Friday, August 4: Isle of Hoy: Dwarfie Stane, Old Man of Hoy | Kirkwall
Distance total 6.75 mi. Heights climbed: 100 & 720 ft.
This morning we will take the ferry to Hoy, the highest and wildest of all Orkney Islands. Our walk will take us to the 5,000-year-old monument known as the Dwarfie Stane, an immense block of sandstone lying within a natural amphitheater. This is the only example in northern Europe of a rock-cut tomb similar to the chamber tombs of the Mediterranean. Drive through a glen, along what could be burial mounds, to Rackwick, from where we will walk to the world famous sea stack (at 450 ft.) known as The Old Man of Hoy. Return by ferry to Kirkwall, mainland Orkney. Freshen up at our hotel before gathering for dinner this evening. (B,L,D)

Saturday, August 5: Mainland Orkney: Ring of Brodgar, Stones of Stenness, Maeshowe, Ness of Brodgar | Kirkwall | Ferry to Shetland
Distance 2 mi. Height climbed: negligible 
For centuries, people have assumed that the Ring of Brodgar and the Standing Stones of Stenness were the main Neolithic focus of this area, but recent excavations at the Ness of Brodgar question that interpretation. The stone circles might have been merely on the periphery of the true ceremonial center—a massive ceremonial complex that, in its heyday, must have completely dominated the landscape. Following breakfast, we will visit several important Neolithic sites on mainland Orkney, from the Ring of Brodgar to the Stones of Stenness and Maeshowe, which is Britain’s largest chambered cairn. Excavations will be in progress at the Ness of Brodgar, and we will take a private tour of the site. Dinner will be at The Lynnfield Hotel, before we take the overnight ferry from Kirkwall to Lerwick at about 11pm. (B,L,D)

Sunday, August 6: Lerwick, Shetland | Old Scatness | Isle of Mousa | Brae, North Mainland
Distance 2.5 mi. Height climbed: 215 ft.
We arrive in Lerwick in the morning, after breakfast on the ferry. Travel south today, visiting Old Scatness Broch and Iron Age village. This is part of the crucible of Iron Age Shetland, also including Mousa Broch and Jarlshof (a site we will visit on August 9th), that was added by UNESCO in 2012 to the Tentative List of cultural World Heritage Sites. In the afternoon we will take the boat to the uninhabited island of Mousa, which is famous for its Iron Age broch—the world’s best-preserved Pictish broch. It rises to 40 feet, and the skill and accuracy of its builders has resulted in a 2,000-year-old construction that appears today as though the builders have just laid the last stone and gone home for the night. Back on mainland we will transfer to our hotel, located near Brae. Overnight at the 3-star Busta House Hotel for three nights. (B,L,D)

Monday, August 7: Isle of Unst | Brae
Distance total 5 mi. Heights climbed: 165 & 525 ft. 
This morning we will take the ferry to the Isle of Unst, where the excavation of three Viking/Late Norse settlements forms the center of the much larger, multi-faceted Viking Unst project. A replica longhouse has been constructed, adjacent to which the replica longship, the Skidbladner, is a copy of the 9^th-century Gokstad that was discovered in Vestfold, Norway. We will also visit Hermaness, the northernmost cliffs of the British Isles, which are home to over 100,000 breeding seabirds. (B,L,D)

Tuesday, August 8: Fethaland | Brae | Farewell dinner
Distance 6 mi. Height climbed: 1,000 ft.
Fethaland is the northernmost part of Shetland’s mainland. We walk to a ruined Haaf (meaning “open sea”) fishing station dating from the 18^th and 19^th centuries. The ever-enterprising lairds established this and other Haaf fishing stations on remote northwestern parts of Shetland to profit from the catch of ling and cod during the summer months. Extremely brave fishermen ventured out (50 miles) into the Atlantic Ocean in open boats called sixareens. Set within the fishing station are a large, circular Neolithic house and a ruined Iron Age broch. Other places of interest that we will encounter during our walk are a Viking soapstone quarry, and a 6^th-century chapel site and settlement, both situated on precarious headlands. Return to our hotel and gather for a farewell dinner. (B,L,D)

Wednesday, August 9: Jarlshof  | St. Ninian’s Isle | Lerwick | Ferry to Aberdeen
Distance 1.25 mi. Height climbed: 130 ft.
This morning we will check out of our hotel and travel south for a visit to Jarlshof, an archaeological site that was occupied for more than 4,000 years. There is a remarkable sequence of stone structures: late Neolithic houses, a Bronze Age village, an Iron Age broch and wheelhouses, a Norse longhouse, a medieval farmstead, and a 16th-century laird’s house. Our next stop is St. Ninian’s Isle, which is connected to the mainland by a tombolo (a bar of sand, or shingle). St. Ninian’s was settled in pre-Norse times, and the remains of an old chapel are still visible. We will walk across the tombolo and visit the site of the chapel. Back on mainland we will drive to Lerwick. You will have some free time to explore its shops, and the excellent Shetland Museum & Archives, before we take the overnight ferry to Aberdeen at about 5:30pm. We will have dinner aboard the ferry. (B,L,D)

Thursday, August 10: Aberdeen | Fly home
Arrive in Aberdeen this morning, and transfer to Aberdeen International Airport (ABZ) for independent flights homeward. Flights should depart Aberdeen no earlier than 11 am. (B)