Archaeology in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia

 Itinerary

(B)=Breakfast, (L)=Lunch, (D)=Dinner

Tuesday, January 9, 2024: Depart home

Wednesday, January 10: Arrive Riyadh, Saudi Arabia
Upon arrival in Riyadh at King Khalid International Airport (RUH), clear
Saudi customs and immigration. You will be transferred to our hotel, and have the balance of the day at leisure. Overnight at the 4-star Centro Olaya for two nights.

Thursday, January 11: Riyadh city tour: National Museum, Masmak Fortress, Dira Souq | Diriyah | Riyadh | Welcome dinner
After breakfast at our hotel, gather for an introductory meeting and then set out with our local guide to explore the city. Riyadh, meaning “The Gardens” in Arabic, is Saudi Arabia’s capital and primary business hub. Over the past century, the city has transformed from a mud-walled town of 20,000 inhabitants into one of the Middle East’s great metropolises, with a population now numbering more than 7.6 million. Much of the traditional architecture once found in Riyadh has been lost to development, but traces still remain, especially around Masmak Fort and Diriyah (a historic town just outside the city limits that we might visit later today). After a view of the exterior of the 99-story Kingdom Centre, Riyadh’s most iconic skyscraper, we visit the National Museum of Saudi Arabia, featuring eight halls focusing on topics such as pre-Islamic Arabia, the Prophet Muhammad, the Hajj pilgrimage, and the history of the modern Saudi state. Next we drive to Masmak Fortress, built in 1865 to serve as a military garrison for the army of the House of Rasheed, the main rivals of the Al Sauds. It was captured by King Abdulaziz Ibn Saud in 1902, marking the birth of the Third Saudi Kingdom, which continues to rule today.

After lunch at a local restaurant we visit the Dira Souq, where we will be introduced to traditional Saudi clothing, including how the pieces are made and the occasions for which each piece is suitable. If it is open to visitors at the time, we will drive to Diriyah, a historic town in Riyadh’s northwestern outskirts. Its central Al Turaif District, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was the original seat of power of the Al Saud dynasty. The citadel and surrounding palaces, built in the Najdi architectural style characteristic of the central Arabian Peninsula, have undergone an extensive restoration, transforming them into an open-air museum. In Riyadh, we gather for a welcome dinner this evening. (B,L,D)

Friday, January 12: Ushaiger | Unayzah Women’s Market | Buraydah
This morning we set out on a scenic drive to Buraydah, stopping along the way in Ushaiger. Located about 2.5 hours west of Riyadh, Ushaiger is one of the oldest settlements in a desert region dotted with oases, and it is frequently cited as Saudi Arabia’s most beautiful village. The slow-paced, small-town way of life here has remained much the same for centuries, making Ushaiger a window into the past—and a striking contrast to Riyadh. Preserved and protected away from the more modern side of town, the Ushaiger Heritage Village is the star attraction here. Wander the alleys and streets of the well-preserved village, marveling at the traditional architecture, and have a chance to meet local villagers along the way. After lunch at a local restaurant we continue on to Unayzah, an agricultural area that produces wheat and barley of various strains, as well as grapes, grapefruits, lemons, leeks, mandarins, oranges, pomegranates, and dates. Experience firsthand its friendly, welcoming population as you wander the alleys of the Unayzah Women’s Market, featuring handicrafts, handspun wool textiles, spices, tea, and sweets. The shopkeepers here are all women, but all customers are welcome. We continue on to Buraydah, which was historically an oasis town famous for its fruit. Today, agriculture is still important to the city, with wheat and citrus both major crops. Buraydah is also a center of trade for two quintessential Arabian commodities: dates and camels. Check-in to our hotel and then gather for dinner. Overnight at the 4-star Radisson Blu Buraydah. (B,L,D)

Saturday, January 13: Buraydah: Camel market | Fayd | Hail
Enjoy an early morning visit to Buraydah’s camel market, perhaps the largest on Earth, featuring thousands of camels as well as goats and sheep. Stroll through, admiring the animals, marketgoers, and traditions on display. Next we head northwest across the desert to Hail, stopping along the way at Fayd. A major archaeological site located at the halfway point between Baghdad and Mecca, Fayd was for over 500 years perhaps the most important oasis on the major pilgrimage route in the Muslim world. It has a massive citadel, cisterns where pilgrims replenished their water supplies, a mosque, and many houses and shops. Also on our drive we will see the Shammar Mountains, comprising two imposing ranges in the deserts between Buraydah and Hail, which make for a spectacular sight due to their extreme ruggedness and the contrast they provide to the flat deserts around them. Arrive in Hail, an agricultural city with a population of approximately 600,000. The wheat produced in surrounding irrigated lands is important to the kingdom and a significant source of revenue for the city. In times past, Hail was a major rest stop and trading center for pilgrims on the way to Mecca. Check-in to our hotel, and then gather for dinner. Schedule permitting, we may be joined at dinner by a local guest with archaeological connections. Overnight at the 5-star Millennium Hotel. (B,L,D)

Sunday, January 14: Jubbah | Sakaka
This morning we drive overland to Sakaka, stopping along the way in Jubbah to view its spectacular prehistoric petroglyphs, which are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Large sandstone outcroppings are covered with carved images depicting more than 4,000 human and animal figures, dating as far back as 6000 B.C. They are astonishing both for their skillful execution—including the use of perspective—and for the scenes they portray. One notable phenomenon they reveal is the range of wildlife that flourished in the wetter climate of the time. The area was the site of a lake that attracted lion, ibex, gazelle, camel, wolf, and auroch (wild ancestor of domesticated cattle) of ancient times. After lunch, we drive through Al Nufud Al Kabir, also known as Al Nefud, one of the Arabian Peninsula’s most picturesque deserts. Its great crescents of red sand occupy a giant oval depression 180 miles long and 140 miles wide. Arrive in Sakaka, just north of Al Nefud and just south of the Iraqi and Jordanian borders. Olives and dates are grown around the town, but the main highlights here are the archaeological sites surrounding it, many of which we will visit over the next two days. Check-in to our hotel, and then gather for dinner. Overnight at the 3-star Al Nusl Hotel for two nights. (B,L,D)

Monday, January 15: Sakaka’s environs: Rajajil Standing Stones, Sakaka Rock Carvings, Majidia Horse Farm | Sakaka
Spend the day exploring the archaeological sites around Sakaka, beginning with the Rajajil Standing Stones, where 6,000 years ago a group of people inhabiting the Arabian Peninsula erected a series of approximately 50 heavy stone columns. The groups of stones are arranged in a roughly circular pattern and, while their original purpose and appearance have been lost to time, it is likely they were used in religious ceremonies of some sort. After lunch at a local restaurant we continue on to the Sakaka Rock Carvings, ancient carvings in sandstone rocks that were discovered in 2018 by researchers. Our last visit of the day is to the Majidia Horse Farm to learn more about Saudi equestrianism and the role of horses in local culture. Though famous for its camels, Saudi Arabia also has a long history of horsemanship and horses are a hugely important animal here. Return to our hotel in Sakaka and gather for dinner. (B,L,D)

Tuesday, January 16: Sakaka’s environs: Za’abal Castle, Dumat al Jandal | Tabuk
Explore more of the history around Sakaka before we head overland to Tabuk. Za’abal Castle is scenically perched atop a rocky hill just outside of Sakaka. Most of the castle dates to around 400 years ago, but the site has been used since at least Nabataean times, millennia ago. Date palms and old neighborhoods ring the castle. Dumat al Jandal is a series of ruins surrounding an oasis in the desert not far from Sakaka. There is evidence of settlements here stretching back as far as 1000 B.C. A few of the main sights here include the 7^th-century Umar Mosque, the imposing Marid Castle, and the historical neighborhood known as the Al Dar’i Quarter. The latter is a relatively well-preserved example of an Arabian town’s residential areas in the 15^th century. After lunch at a local restaurant we continue on to the city of Tabuk, not far from the Jordanian border in the far northwest of Saudi Arabia. Its northerly location gives the city some of Saudi Arabia’s coolest winters, and it occasionally even snows in the nearby mountains. The city played an important role in the early Islamic era, and later on it served as an important stop on the Ottoman Hejaz Railway. Check-in to our hotel, and then gather for dinner. Overnight at the 4-star Swiss Inn Tabuk. (B,L,D)

Wednesday, January 17: Tabuk Castle | Hisma | Sharma
This morning we visit a site in Tabuk before heading toward the Neom region, stopping off at Hisma along the way. The 16^th-century Tabuk Castle is one of the main highlights of the city, and it has been preserved and is now a museum open to the public. We continue on to Hisma, admiring its beautiful, monumental landscapes that are composed of sandstone and granite massifs. The area has been inhabited by humans for millennia, a fact attested to by the many prehistoric and early Islamic-period petroglyphs that can be found on the rock walls. Drive onward to Sharma and check-in to our resort, where we gather later for dinner. Overnight at the 4-star Royal Tulip Sharma Resort. (B,L,D)

Thursday, January 18: Madyan & Mughair Shuwayb | Ras Al Sheikh Hameed | Tabuk
Along the western shore of Tabuk Province is Madyan, an ancient region with a main city of the same name where, according to the Quran and the Bible, Moses lived in exile for 10 years. Madyan is also noteworthy for at one point being occupied by the ancient Nabataeans, who built a necropolis, known as Mughair Shuwayb, into a hillside. It is a marvel, with sophisticated architectural elements set in a novel location in the town called al Bad’a within the Neom region project. Continue on to Ras Al Sheikh Hameed, a sandy cape which lies at the entrance to the Gulf of Aqaba, at the Straits of Tiran. Aside from the natural beauty and interesting geography, the beach here is also noteworthy for the rusting wreckage of a PBY Catalina (an American patrol plane). In 1960, the plane landed on the beach here, piloted by an American taking his family on a world tour. The family survived and made it out via Jeddah, but their aircraft did not. After lunch at a local restaurant we head back to Tabuk and check-in to our hotel, where we gather later for dinner. Overnight at the 4-star Swiss Inn Tabuk. (B,L,D)

Friday, January 19: Tayma | Al Ula | Harrat Al Uwayrid | Al Ula
Set out this morning toward Al Ula, the jewel of Saudi Arabia, stopping at Tayma along the way. The ancient oasis city of Tayma is located on the edge of Al Nufud Al Kabir Desert. Once an important stop on the trade route from the western Arabian coast to the Nile Valley, Tayma has been inhabited since the Bronze Age and has produced significant archaeological finds, including Egyptian hieroglyphs and pre-Islamic palaces. After lunch we continue on to the town of Al Ula, with a present-day population of some 5,500, which has been inhabited for the last 7,000 years as evidenced by carvings found in and around the area. In 2017 the Royal Commission for Al Ula was established by the Saudi government with the goals of investigating, preserving, and developing the many archaeological sites in the area. In the years since, the infrastructure in Al Ula has developed rapidly, allowing travelers to more easily see sites that were until recently practically inaccessible. This evening we head up to volcanic Harrat Al Uwayrid, the region’s highest point, which provides a spectacular view of the Al Ula and Dedan oases and the surrounding landscape. The black rocks at the top and the views out over the oases are at their most spectacular as the sun is setting. Return to our hotel in Al Ula and gather for dinner. Overnight at the 4-star Shaden Resort for three nights. (B,L,D)

Saturday, January 20: Hegra | Dadan | Jebel Ikmah Inscriptions | Elephant Rock | Dinner at Maraya Social | Al Ula
Spend a full day exploring the area around Al Ula. From the 2nd century B.C. until Roman conquest in A.D. 106, Hegra (also known as Madain Saleh) was the southernmost city of the Nabataean Kingdom and a thriving center of trade. Like Jordan’s famous Nabataean capital of Petra to the north, it was and remains a site of stunning, carved-stone tombs. The more than 100 rock-cut tombs here are fewer in number than what was found in Petra, but by and large they are in better condition and, unlike at Petra, many have inscriptions, providing rare clues about Nabataean life. Hegra was the first location in Saudi Arabia to be designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but it has only recently become readily accessible to international travelers.

After lunch, we continue on to the ancient city of Dadan, built nearly 3,000 years ago. Its most notable features are the Lion Tombs, hewn from rock high above the desert floor, a remarkable feat even with modern equipment. Carved lions give the tombs their modern names. We visit the nearby gorge at Jebel Ikmah, whose steep walls have been used by locals for thousands of years to write inscriptions in various languages, including Dadanitic, Aramaic, and Thamudic. Some are carved from the stone and others are etched as petroglyphs. The inscriptions have not all been translated, but it is clear that some are as simple as names, akin to ancient graffiti, while others are notes left for travelers and even prayers. View Elephant Rock (Jebel al Fil, in Arabic), an immense, naturally formed, elephant-shaped rock in the desert near Al Ula. Dinner this evening is at Maraya Social, located on the rooftop of the stunning, mirrored Maraya Cultural Center. The region’s top dining option, it features locally sourced produce and often also a celebrity chef. (B,L,D)

Sunday, January 21: Al Ula: Old Town
This morning we explore Al Ula’s Old Town, which thrived as a stop on the pilgrimage route from Damascus to Mecca from the 12th century well into the 20^th. Remnants of some 900 mudbrick homes and 400 shops stand within the town’s walls, along with a restored Friday mosque where it is believed the Prophet Muhammad once prayed. Towering above it all is Musa bin Nusayr Castle, Al Ula’s oldest surviving building, dating from the 10th century. After lunch at a local restaurant, we will either have time at leisure for independent exploration or, schedules permitting, we may have a special meeting or site visit. Gather this evening for dinner at our resort. (B,L,D)

Monday, January 22: Medina: Dar al Medina Museum, Mount Uhud
Set out this morning on a drive to Medina that will take about four hours. The holy city of Medina is a major Islamic pilgrimage site, visited alongside Mecca on the hajj pilgrimage that all Muslims aspire to make. The heart of the city is open only to Muslims, but the power of the place is tangible everywhere. Pilgrims flock to the city, filling scores of high-rise hotels that dominate the downtown skyline. After lunch, we will set out to see Masjid Al Nabawi (Prophet’s Mosque), from the exterior only and from a distance. Only Muslims may enter the mosque, but it can be viewed from vantage points across the city. The Mosque houses the tomb of the Prophet Muhammad and can hold as many as a million occupants. Its ten towering minarets are conspicuous throughout Medina—particularly at night, when the mosque is aglow in light. Visit the Dar al Medina Museum, which documents the archaeology, culture, and heritage of the city that stretches back thousands of years. Stop also at Mount Uhud, on the outskirts of the city, which provides an overview of the region and was the site of the Battle of Uhud, a critical event in Islamic history. Return to our hotel and then gather for dinner. Overnight at the 4-star Le Méridien Medina. (B,L,D)

Tuesday, January 23: High-Speed Rail to Jeddah | Jeddah: Jeddah Corniche
Transfer to the railway station this morning for a two-hour trip to Jeddah via Saudi Arabia’s new high-speed train. Upon arrival we transfer to our hotel to check-in and enjoy a lunch of traditional Saudi favorites before some introductory touring of Jeddah in the afternoon. Jeddah Corniche is a long stretch of coast developed as a recreational area, with walkways, parks, swimming bays, playgrounds, sculpture parks, and cafés. Located along the Jeddah Corniche, King Fahd’s Fountain is the tallest fountain in the world. Originally built in the 1980s with a more modestly sized jet, the fountain in its current form reaches a height of over 800 feet and pumps saltwater from the adjacent Red Sea. Enjoy the balance of the day and dinner at leisure. Overnight at the 4-star Centro Shaheen Jeddah hotel for two nights. (B,L)

Wednesday, January 24: Jeddah: Abdul Raouf Khalil Museum, walking tour of Al Balad, Gabel Street Souq | Farewell dinner
Spend our final day in Saudi Arabia exploring Jeddah, beginning with the Abdul Raouf Khalil Museum that is housed in a striking structure incorporating several styles of traditional architecture. Four floors of exhibits include replicas of typical domestic rooms from throughout Arabia; a scale model depicting the pilgrimage route to Mecca; and extensive collections of art, furniture, manuscripts, clothing, and more. Take a walking tour through Jeddah’s historic center, Al Balad, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Walk past hidden galleries and classic bazaars, appreciating how much of the architecture preserves the old Hejazi style, striking a contrast with the glitzier areas of the new town. Explore the Gabel Street Souq, a traditional market in the bustling heart of the old town. Vendors sell all sorts of local and regional produce, including spices, dates, handicrafts, honey, gold, and more. You will have time for lunch on your own and to explore, shop, rest, or pack. This evening we gather for a farewell dinner. (B,D)

Thursday, January 25: Fly home
Transfer to Jeddah’s King Abdulaziz International Airport (JED) for your flights homeward. (B)